![]() If your camera can do 5 or more, by all means go ahead and try that. In this article I will be using 3 auto-bracketed shots because that's the most my Nikon D90 can capture. It's hard to see the effects of different F-number changes on the screen of your camera while you're shooting, so just take a bunch of shots at different settings and analyze them at your computer later. The lower the f-number, the wider open the aperture is, the shallower/smaller the Depth of Field and less time and light required for adequate exposure. In general, the F-number corresponds to how wide open the shutter is. Read up on F-number and Depth of Field if you're not too sure. I suggested something like f/8 in that post, but it obviously depends on your camera, lens and subject. More Shooting TipsĪs I said in the Part 2, you need to shoot in Aperture Priority (or Program mode and keep the same Aperture for all auto-bracketed shots) and choose an f stop in the middle so you have some room to experiment. ![]() If not, take your camera outside and take some nice shots. If you've been following along, you should now have several RAW images to use for HDR imaging. ![]() In the first part I covered what HDR imaging actually is and how it works while the second part went over DSLR camera setup for taking shots necessary for the HDR imaging process, in addition to configuring a regular Canon Point-and-Shoot camera for auto-bracketed RAW shooting. Welcome to the third and likely final part of my series on High Dynamic Range photography. How To: Get Started with HDR Photography (Part 3)
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